Sunday, October 23, 2011

A Hindu Blessing

October 23/Day 23: Kashi Vishwanath (the Golden Temple), a walk through town, overnight train to Agra.

It was another beautiful sunrise over the Ganges.






My guide picked me up around 7 a.m. to take me to Kashi Vishwanath, referred to by most tourists as the Golden Temple. Its nickname comes from the 900 kg of gold that forms the main temple, which juts out from the wall surrounding the temple. It is one of the holiest temples in Hinduism and is considered to be home to the god Shiva. Visiting this temple and bathing in the Ganges creates a path to moksha (release from the suffering associated with the cycle of repeated death and reincarnation). Tourists are not allowed inside the temple. With a Brahmin (priest) as my escort, I was able to enter. I am told this is a rare opportunity.

The temple is very close to a mosque so security is very tight because Muslims are not allowed inside and temples are often the site of terrorist attacks. Cellphones, cameras and pens are also not allowed inside. Everyone is patted down and walks through a metal detector before entering the temple. The line to enter the temple wrapped around the alleyways leading to the temple. I had to wash my hands, purchase some offerings for Shiva, then meet with the security officers who asked me some questions, like why I wanted to go inside and asked me about my religious beliefs. The guards carried assault rifles, which seemed to make me drip sweat as I spoke to them. My head wrap wasn't helping the situation. Also, I know there is a separate police department for tourists, and these men were not members of the police department for tourists. I spoke a few words in Hindi, which seemed to earn me the okay to enter.

I was told to bring only my passport and wallet. The Brahmin told me to hold these tightly in my left hand while I was in the temple. I had the death grip on them. The temple was very crowded. People held on to each other's backs while standing in line to prevent people from cutting.

The inner sanctuary has a Shiva lingua inside, which is the point by which Shiva is present in the temple. Offerings, like flowers, are placed in the center of the lingua. There were about 10 people at a time filtering through this site. The area was about the size of two small closets joined together. After placing the offering, I met with another priest who had me repeat a mantra as he spoke it. He gave me and my family a blessing to bring us peace, happiness and knowledge, then placed a flower necklace around my neck. He also tied a colored string around my left wrist (left because I am a female) for good luck. I was instructed to place the necklace in the Ganges when I left the temple.






En route to place my flower necklace in the Ganges.

I packed up at the hotel, checked out, then said good bye to Yan. I walked around town for a bit before I grabbed a late lunch. My train for Agra leaves at 6:15 p.m. and is scheduled to arrive at 6 a.m. tomorrow. The only class currently available is 3rd class AC, which means instead of 3 bunk mates like last time I'll have 7.





These girls were trying to get me to buy silk from their uncle's store. The younger one used metal stamps and colored powder to decorate my hand.





My painted hand and my bracelet from the Brahmin (making the bracelet total 4).





Men along the river were repairing this boat.






They had quiet the task ahead of them.






Cows gathered for an afternoon nap.






Some spring cleaning.






Sadhus milled about near the river.





They ask tourists for money in exchange for an opportunity to take a photo.






I ate some yellow dal with spices over rice before I left for my train. I'm hoping for a fog-free morning and an on time arrival.

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Location:Varanasi, India

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