Today I said farewell to Bangkok and Anna, and entered a time warp by arriving in Old Delhi.
A sunrise farewell to Bangkok, followed by a farewell to Anna :(
Happy travels, Anna!
It was a 4.5 hour flight from Bangkok to New Delhi. Security boarding the plane was the tightest I have ever seen. I was patted down twice, my bag checked twice (by hand), I went through two metal detectors and I had to show my ticket and passport at every turn. It made me feel less safe. It seems Delhi is always on alert for terrorist activity but is especially so now because of a recent bomb that exploded at their high court.
By 1 p.m., I was in New Delhi. Delhi is separated into New Delhi and Old Delhi. Old Delhi was the capital of the Islamic India. The British built New Delhi around 1911 when they transferred the capital from Calcutta (Kolkata) to Delhi. 12.8 million people live in Delhi and it is believed that the area has been settled for at least 2,500 years. The Mughal emperor built many of the impressive structures in Delhi. By 1947, the British were no longer in power and India was independent.
My view through the cab--a scheduled pick up by the hotel was essential. It takes at least a couple hours (or maybe a couple of weeks...) to settle into the pace of Delhi. There is a cloud of dust surrounding the streets, which creates a uniquely dry feeling in your eyes, mouth and nose. I guzzled water throughout the day but still can't seem to shake the dryness.
A left turn, and I arrived at my hotel situated in Old Delhi. As you can imagine, the driver aggressively used the horn to help clear the people, dogs and auto rickshaws from the center of the street. An inch clearance on either side of anything seems to be more than enough space to avoid a close-call collision. I'm guessing a half an inch might create a reaction from the driver. A six inch buffer zone seems to be my comfort zone.
My hotel--pretty glamorous. I'm actually not sure if that comment is sarcastic. Relative to other areas here, it is glamorous. Directions go something like, "go down the alley, then turn right." I don't think anyone has referred to this hotel as being located on a street. When I ventured out from the hotel, I used a pile of trash as a landmark to find my way back. I say pile of trash and not pile of garbage bags because half the alley was piled with loose trash. I have to call down to the front desk if I want hot water to shower. After 10 minutes, a not-so-steamy shower awaits. I am still not sure how to make proper use of the bucket under the shower. Thankfully the room is pretty clean and the staff is helpful.
I had planned to travel India mostly by train, but I was able to get a pretty good price for a driver/guide to take me around Rajasthan by booking it in India. I splurged and paid an extra $10 (for the 17 days) to get an air conditioned car, not to keep cool but rather to avoid the dust. After getting a taste of the chaos, a driver sounded pretty spectacular. You can also get a better feel for the small towns by driving. I will do Varanasi and Agra via train and then meet up with my driver next week for the remainder of the trip. I also booked a guide for tomorrow to show me around New Delhi.
My train for Varanasi departs tomorrow night, so I wanted to sneak in some sightseeing today.
A few blocks from my hotel is Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque. It can fit 25,000 people. Mosque construction began in 1644. Shoes are not allowed and long sleeves and pants are required to enter.
The mosque had a very holy and relaxed feeling. Many locals were hanging out while others prayed. Walking around barefoot in pigeon droppings was another unique experience. It didn't seem to phase anyone, so I tried to just go with the flow while I reviewed in my head the vaccinations I had before I left New York.
Inside the mosque. It is closed to visitors during prayer times.
View of the Red Fort from the mosque. Note the homes in the foreground.
A short walk from the mosque is the Red Fort, a UNESCO world heritage site.
Part of the outer wall of the Red Fort.
The Red Fort is a fortressed city built by the Mogul emperors beginning in 1638. At the height of this city, the buildings were lined with precious stones, it housed ceremonial elephants, and it demonstrated the Mughal's wealth. A moat with wooden drawbridges also surrounded the city.
The entranceway.
The walkway takes you through a covered bazaar (the Chatta Chowk). When built, it was a novel idea to have a covered bazaar. Shops still line this entrance hall but instead of selling fine silks, jewelry and gold, they sell cheap tourist items.
The Hall of Public Audiences where the emperor sat and heard the people's grievances.
Inside the hall. During hot weather, red curtains were hung around the columns to block out the sun.
The emperor's throne was located on top of this marble structure which was lined with precious stones.
Different museums are also located inside the fort, including the Museum of Archaeology.
There were many great fighters in the Moghul empire. Above are some of their daggers. In 1526, the Mughal empire overthrew Imbraham Lodi, the then Sultan of Delhi. A succession of seventeen rulers had power over this dynasty for more than three centuries. They ruled until 1857 when, after a national uprising led by Emperor Shah II, the British exiled him and became the sovereign rulers of India. The British had been the first to set foot on Indian soil back in the time of Jahangir.
The white marble Hall of Private Audiences where the emperor would hold private meetings.
An area for storing water.
One of the emperor's private apartments. I heard that the scales of justice are carved into the ceiling.
Living quarters. The British used part of the fort as cells to hold prisoners around 1942.
A dress worn during this time period.
I saw the sunrise over Bangkok and set over the Red Fort in Old Delhi. Before I arrived in Delhi, Bangkok felt far from home. Nothing compares to how far from home you feel as when you are in Old Delhi.
Many people asked to have their picture taken with me. It was awkward at first, but I always obliged. I view it as pay back for me always asking other people if I can take their picture when they look different (the long neck women in the Paduong tribe) or when they are doing different things (like the man skinning frogs in Vietnam).
I hopped in a tuk tuk to take a quick walk around Connaught Place, New Delhi's commercial center built by the British.
The tuk tuks here are a little different than those in SE Asia.
A shopping plaza in Connaught Place.
There is a red stain on the bottom of these pillars. I was told it is red from people's spit--many people chew some type of red substance (they said it wasn't tobacco) and spit the juice from it on the street.
I perused through a local street bazaar (they seem to use the word bazaar rather than market) then headed for dinner.
A local recommended I eat at Karim. It is the place to go for Indian food. Ancestors of chefs who cooked for the Moghul emperors run this restaurant (at least that is what I am told). It is always packed. There are a few Karim restaurants in Delhi, but I went to the one near gate 1 to Jama Masqid (the mosque).
A delicious mess of meat and roti. I ate half a tandoori chicken (sorry mom, but it was the best chicken I have ever had), meat stew (I am pretty sure I don't want to know all the ingredients) and some roti. It was so good I had to try the chicken kabob too. I devoured it before I took a picture. It was dripping with oil and spices.
On my way back to the hotel, I also picked up a chai tea from a street vendor for 7 rupees, which is about 15 cents. I would typically ask to take a picture of the vendor selling the chai, but I am still working up the courage to take pictures around here. It seems like an invasion of personal space to be snapping pictures. About 20 people were settling down for the night to sleep near the chai vendor. Other people were laying in the small street medium to sleep on cardboard. The medium was barely wide enough for them to lay down on and bikes and tuk tuks continued to wiz by. About the only comforting thought was that it was a cool and dry night. Everyone reassures me it is safe but reminds me to watch for pick pockets. I suppose there is safety in numbers--one think Old Delhi certainly has.
I did some travel planning and thankfully passed out quickly. Dead bugs from the hole to the ceiling fan kept falling on my bed, but at least they were dead.
I'm touring New Delhi tomorrow then catching an overnight train to Varanasi.
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Location:New Delhi, India
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